Personal debt  and bankruptcy is on the rise in Canada. Here’s a brief overview of the personal bankruptcy process.

Between 1990 and 2006 business bankruptcies declined by 42 per cent – but consumer, or personal, bankruptcies increased by 85 per cent, according to Industry Canada statistics. And with Canadian household debt loads continuing to rise, it’s likely that individuals will continue to have to file for personal bankruptcy. Here’s an overview of the process and some things to consider.

Insolvency

When someone is unable to meet his or her payments on debts (known as debt obligations), that person is considered to be insolvent. The insolvency process is a legal proceeding that is dealt with under the provisions of the Bankruptcy and Insolvency Act.

You are considered to be insolvent when:
• you do not currently have an un-discharged bankruptcy
• you owe at least a $1000.00; and you are unable to meet your regular payments as they become due, or you would not be able to pay all of your debts if all of your assets were sold

At that point there are really two options:

• Bankruptcy: under the guidance of a trustee, most of the assets of that individual will be liquidated to sold the debt
• Proposal: where the individual makes an offer to debtors to settle the debt. (Companies have a third option, receivership, but this is rare for individuals.) To make a proposal the individual’s unsecured debts must total under $75,000.

A licensed professional can advise you on whether a proposal or a bankruptcy best fits your situation. Once you have determined that a bankruptcy is appropriate you will need to find a licensed trustee.

Bankruptcy Trustees

Trustees are chosen by the person filing for bankruptcy and paid by the bankrupt and the assets from the estate. These fees will depend on the individual’s debt situation, but are set under the Bankruptcy and Insolvency Act. However, it’s important to understand that a trustee’s first responsibility is to represent the creditors.

The trustee’s duties are to:
• Review your situation and inform you as to the alternatives available;
• Administer the proposal – that is, to sell any assets you have that are not exempt and to distribute the cash to creditors
• Administer the estate and file the paperwork from the beginning to the end according to the Bankruptcy and Insolvency Act.

A trustee is also an officer of the court, and is generally an accountant. Once chosen, a trustee cannot be discharged (or ‘fired’) without approval from the Court.

If your case is particularly complex or you have concerns, you may want to consult an insolvency lawyer as well. The Office of the Superintendent of Bankruptcy Canada regulates licensed trustees, and provides an online database of trustees.

Once you have a trustee, you have certain obligations that you must fulfill.

Your obligations

Once you enter into the process of bankruptcy you must disclose all your financial information to the trustee: income, expenses, debts, and assets, along with information about any property you have sold in the last year. You will have to turn your credit cards over to the trustee. You must stay in touch with the trustee during the process and advise them of any address or telephone number changes.

You may have to attend an examination before the Official Receiver. This examination takes place under oath and is designed to discover the cause or causes of your bankruptcy, look at any property recently sold, and the status of current assets. Your conduct is also examined.

You may also have to attend a meeting of your creditors, if one is requested. This is to confirm the appointment of the trustee, give creditors information about the bankruptcy, and to appoint inspectors to oversee the process.

And you will have to attend at least two counseling sessions that discuss issues around personal finance and bankruptcy.

Which debts are covered by bankruptcy? What do I keep?
Debts that are not secured, such as credit card debt, and in many cases debts to the Canada Revenue Agency (taxes) are dealt with through bankruptcy. Debts to family must be included in the bankruptcy process – you cannot continue to repay family members the full amount of a loan while settling with other creditors for less.

Secured loans, such as mortgages and car loans are not covered by bankruptcy. However your trustee may be able to help you in surrendering those assets and receiving a receipt.

Other debt not covered by bankruptcy includes:
• student loans, if it is less than 10 years since your schooling finished
• fine or penalty imposed by the Court
• alimony
• liability for dividend to an undisclosed creditor
• debt obtained by fraud
• liability for support or maintenance of spouse or child under an agreement or Court Order

Which assets remain yours (or are exempt from the bankruptcy) depends on your province.

Once you file for bankruptcy most wage assignments and garnishments will stop. The trustee will review your income and expenses and compare these to guidelines set out by the Superintendent of Bankruptcy. If you are considered to have extra income it may be assigned to your creditors.

Assets that you acquire during the bankruptcy period – for example, if you were to inherit property – become a part of the bankruptcy.

Discharge of bankruptcy
For first-time personal bankruptcies the bankruptcy is automatically discharged after nine months. There are however, several kinds of discharge:

Absolute discharge: You are no longer responsible for unsecured debts incurred prior to bankruptcy except for those which were not included (such as child support payments).

Conditional discharge: You may have to make payments to your creditors through the trustee for a specified period. You will not receive an absolute discharge until that period is over (and all payments have been made).

Discharge refused: The Court may refuse a discharge in unusual circumstances, such as:

• your assets are less than 50 per cent of the amount owed
• you continued to obtain credit while unable to pay your existing creditors
• you contributed to bankruptcy by extravagant living or gambling
• you failed to perform any duty imposed by the Bankruptcy and Insolvency Act

Once your bankruptcy is discharged it will take six years for it to be removed from your credit report.

For more information:
http://strategis.ic.gc.ca/epic/site/bsf-osb.nsf/en/h_br01545e.html

At first glance, this may seem a pointless topic for an article. Who would want, after all, to declare bankruptcy? Most Americans are well aware of the far-reaching financial consequences of bankruptcy protection. Bankruptcy can immediately and significantly lower FICO scores, darken credit reports for up to a decade and, depending upon the situation, forever prevent you from some sorts of financing or employment. In the more popular games bankruptcy means, simply, that you lose the game. Even as a form of speech – being morally or spiritually ‘bankrupt’ – the notion’s hardly complimentary.

Nevertheless, as spiraling bills force more and more borrowers to sadly ponder what would’ve been once unthinkable, many consumers are forced to consider bankruptcy as a final alternative to seemingly insurmountable debt-loads. And, because bankruptcy’s so well-known as a final resort, a good number don’t bother to investigate the actual truths of bankruptcy (particularly after the restriction-tightening recent legislation) before succumbing to the inevitable.

More than ever before, this is a shame. Bankruptcies are no longer a guarantee of debt liquidation, the negative impacts can well beyond credit score repercussions, and, especially now, other bankruptcy alternatives may serve the average consumer better as they seek debt relief. Even on a Chapter 7 bankruptcy – and even though Chapter 7 notation would appear on your credit report for seven to ten years following – it’s possible that not all debt would be eliminated. In other words, the unlucky filer could yet adopt all the corrosive drawbacks of bankruptcy without the expected benefits. Considering this, it’s more important than ever for all borrowers even beginning to think about bankruptcy to closely analyze all aspects of the new legislation.

First of all, it’s no longer wholly the consumer’s decision on which sort of bankruptcy to file. As most past debtors attempted the Chapter 7 (which did, whatever the negative effects upon credit, liquidate most outstanding bills), this should be the most striking difference for average borrowers. Under current legislation, the courts must subject your income from six-to-nine-months ago to what’s become known as ‘the means test’. This test compares past income (no grace given if, say, the borrower has since changed jobs) with the average income from the state and then subtracts arbitrarily decided living expenses. Even avoiding the obvious regional and career differences (with housing prices in Fresno rather less expensive than those in Southern California, say, or the vehicle needs of a contractor more expansive than secretary), this allows a court trustee or their assistant to, upon their whim, change every bit of your life. Families have been forced to move or pull children out of private schools with little warning. Allowing the government free rein to budget and plan your family’s future carries obvious risks.

In previous years, of course, whomever went bankrupt would have to face the threat of their property and possessions being taken by the court and sold off to pay the creditors – every once in a while the news would cover an auction of celebrity memorabilia essentially being run by the IRS, for example – but ordinary debtors rarely had to worry about the loss of household items since their collected value, after depreciation, simply wasn’t worth enough for the government to bother with. Now, however, the tax laws insist all possessions (hobby equipment, children’s toys, family heirlooms) be listed according to their replacement cost: sentimental value, as you’d expect, not to be considered.

More worrisome, any significant investments (aside from custodial trusts or tax-deferred retirement plans like Individual Retirement Accounts) could be liquidated. Second homes and second vehicles are also fair game. Depending upon your specific state’s exemptions, even your residence or primary vehicle could also be forced towards auction. Essentially, the exemptions protect some degree of equity for the home, but, if the borrower had paid down too much of the mortgage balance, the courts could insist the home be sold with all excess equity given over to creditors. It’s imperative that every homeowner even considering bankruptcy search out his or her state’s specific protections and talk to a bankruptcy attorney about the potential fall-out.

There’s another even more significant reason to ensure you’ve a well-trained attorney with whom you feel comfortable. It’s considerably easier under the 2005 act for both creditors to sue for fraudulent bankruptcy filings and for the government to initiate criminal proceedings. Obviously, there should be safeguards in place to prevent the genuinely mercenary from taking advantage of bankruptcy protection, but gray areas within the law can also unnecessarily vilify even those honest borrowers that underestimated a motorcycle’s worth or forgot about accounts they hadn’t touched for a decade.

Again, obviously, for many consumers – those without investments or significant equity in their homes or vehicles; those willing to forego all accumulated possessions; those that wouldn’t mind the government planning their family’s budget for half a decade; those that can’t imagine needing credit reports or FICO scores again – personal bankruptcies can still be of some use. Even for those desperate souls, though, we still urge the consultation, whatever the cost, with top bankruptcy attorneys. For all others, it almost always makes sense these days to do whatever possible to avoid bankruptcy altogether – especially as other alternatives, such as debt settlement, have become increasingly popular. It was always meant as the final option, but, after the recent legislation, that can be all too true.

North Americans are a collection of spenders who must learn the hard way to practice what our grandparents have always known: A penny saved is a penny earned.

Consider that about 43% of North Americans spend more than they earn, according to estimates from the federal government, and the average household carries some $8,000 to $10,000 in credit-card debt.

To make matters worse, the average North American no longer saves money. That’s tumbled from a 10.8% average savings rate in 1984 into negative territory today. It’s no wonder that many of us have been living way above our means for some time.

But that is getting harder and harder to do. Available credit for people to finance their lifestyles has shrunk if not dried up altogether and many North Americans are standing by in shock watching their mortgage payments surge while the value of their 401(k)s / RRSP’s drop.

It’s clear we need to start spending less and saving more. That may sound easier said than it’s done. The key is to be aware of your where your money is going and take steps to stop the leaks.

Here are five simple tips that could save you hundreds of dollars a month:

1. Cash back at the pump

In the past five months gasoline prices have dropped 56%, from an average price of $4.11 to $1.80 a gallon or 72 cents a litre. Somehow, households found the money to pay the higher price and survive so now people should take that excess money they are saving and bank it.

Jean Chatzky, author and personal finance expert suggests using the money you were spending on gasoline to build up that rainy day fund or to pay some your holiday expenses instead of racking up more debt.

2. Dinner Savings

Another great way North Americans can cut costs each month is to eat at home, says Jonathan and David Murray, twin brothers who are financial advisers.

According to a recent Zagat survey, North Americans will spend an average of $34 this year every time they go out to eat dinner, that’s for one dinner, drink and gratuity; $76.00 if they live in one of the 20 most expensive cities. If a couple does that four times in a month the expense is close to $300 in low-cost areas and $600 in higher-cost regions, and if you have more than one drink or are treating family or friends, costs can add up quickly.

Plan a dinner or party at home and ask guests to bring a dish. If you’re big on getting together with friends, family and work associates, this could save you hundreds of dollars a month.

3. Renegotiate Household Bills

You may not be able to negotiate with the gas company or the electric company, but you can with credit cards, cable and phone services, among others. Do the homework and find out what competing cable companies, for example, are offering and ask your provider to renegotiate your bill. You may have to get through to a manager but Chatzky said she recently did this and got her monthly bill reduced by $50.

4. Smart shopping

Retailers are poised to have one of the worst holiday shopping seasons in decades and are offering deep discounts to move merchandise. But smart shoppers can save even more money by hunting down coupons. Before ordering online or going to a store, go to sites like Couponcabin.com and Ultimatecoupons.com or Google the name of a store and often you’ll get a coupon code to enter at checkout. You can save 10% to 20% or more on the total order or maybe get free shipping.

There are also coupons to print out and take to the store for deeper discounts. And don’t be afraid to pit one retailer against another by asking for a price match on sale items.

5. Keep the receipt

It is important to hang on to all your store receipts and keep track of sales. Savvy shoppers can possibly save even more on purchases by checking back to see if the retailers lower prices even further. If that happens within two weeks of your purchase, most stores will credit you the difference.

We hope that you can layer into your shopping habits the following tips as a means to start saving money fast and easy.

Toronto Bankruptcy Trustees

I came across this fantastic news today in the Toronto Sun newspaper that will give investors some peace of mind:

If you find yourself in financial trouble and have to declare bankruptcy, your registered retirement savings are now safe from your creditors.

Recent amendments to Canada’s Bankruptcy and Insolvency Act now rule that for bankruptcies occurring after July 7, 2008 creditors can no longer go after your Registered Retirement Savings Plans (RRSPs), Registered Retirement Income Funds (RRIFs) or Deferred Profit Sharing Plans (DPSPs) to pay off owing debts.

In the past, only some of your investments such as certain segregated funds and pension funds were protected from creditors. Now, you don’t have to worry that all your retirement savings will be forfeited if you go bankrupt. However, to prevent intentional protection of funds, any money put into registered plans in the 12 months before a bankruptcy (or longer) may not be subject to this new rule.

Several provinces (Manitoba, Saskatchewan, P.E.I., and Newfoundland) already provide creditor protection. Those laws will remain in place and the new federal law applies everywhere else. Quebec law protects some registered retirement plans but this new law appears to cover all RRSPs in Quebec.

All Canadians will benefit from this new rule change in the following ways:

– Retirement protection for small business owners:

In 2003, the Canadian Federation of Independent Business conducted a survey of members that found 91% of small business owners used RRSPs as a retirement savings vehicle. CFIB has been calling on the government to protect these retirement savings for years. Many small business owners and professionals put their personal assets at risk. The CFIB survey says only 28% of small business owners have already-protected formal pension plans. This rule will help small business owners protect one of their main retirement savings strategies while still investing other money in their business.

– Greater diversification:

As we all know, you should spread your investments around to reduce your risk. Before this amendment, if protection from bankruptcy was a concern for your retirement savings your investment choices may have been limited. Now you and your advisor can look at the universe of investments to choose what works best for your retirement portfolio.

- Potential fee savings: Bankruptcy-protected segregated funds have higher fees due to the creditor protection and other unique features. Investors can now work with their financial advisers to see if there are appropriate alternative strategies that can save them some money.

Most GTA – Greater Toronto Area -  financial advisers can help you determine if this rule change affects your personal financial planning strategies. Consult a Toronto bankruptcy expert to find out more details about how these changes could affect your situation. If you find yourself in financial difficulty consult your local non-profit credit counselling agency. Their counsellors can help you decide if bankruptcy is the right course of action for you.

Bankruptcy Toronto

There are no quick fixes for improving your credit score. But you can raise your score over time by demonstrating that you consistently manage your finances responsibly. Any of the following ten tips can help you to improve your credit score:

1. Pay your bills on time.

This is the best way to improve your score, and it’s never too late to start. Even if you’ve had serious delinquencies in the past, those will count less over time if you keep paying your bills on time.

2. Keep credit card balances low.

High outstanding debt can pull down your score. Don’t go maxing out your credit cards all the time.

3. Check your credit report for accuracy.

It’s possible that there may be inaccurate information on your credit report that can be easily cleared up (see How To Fix Credit Report Inaccuracies). In Canada, if this proves to be the case, then you should contact Equifax immediately.

4. Pay off debt rather than moving it around.

Consolidating your credit card debt onto one card or spreading it over multiple cards will not improve your score in the long run. The most effective way to improve your score is by simply paying down the amount you owe.

5. Keep your credit cards – but manage them responsibly.

In general, having credit cards and installment loans that you pay on time will raise your score. Someone who has no credit cards tends to have a lower score than someone who has managed credit cards responsibly.

6. Don’t open multiple accounts too quickly, especially if you have a short credit history.

Opening too many accounts in too short of a time period can look risky because you are taking on a lot of possible debt. New accounts will also lower the average age of your existing accounts, something that your FICO score also considers.

7. Don’t open new credit card accounts you don’t need.

This approach could backfire and actually lower your score.

8. Don’t close an account to remove it from your record.

It’s a myth that closing an account removes it from your credit report. This is untrue-even closed accounts remain on your report, possibly for an indefinite period of time and may still be factored into the score. In fact, closing accounts can sometimes hurt your score unless you also pay down your debt at the same time.

9. Shop for a loan within a short, focused period of time.

FICO scores distinguish between a search for a single loan and a search for many new credit lines, based in part on the length of time over which recent requests for credit occur. If you shop for a number of loans over too long a time period, it can count against you.

10. Contact your creditors or see a legitimate credit counselor if you’re having financial difficulties.

This won’t improve your score immediately, but the sooner you begin managing your credit well and making timely payments, the sooner your score will get better.

Steps to Improve Your Overall Credit

If you have a history of poor credit or think that you might, it’s important that you find out and take the steps to improve it. It will take time, but with discipline, you may expect to see improvement in as little as six months. You see, creditors are interested in a track record. You’ll have to prove that you consistently pay your creditors on time and that you can effectively pay down your debt. Here’s the simple plan to improve your credit:

Know what’s on your credit report and resolve any discrepancies.

Even if you believe you have a good credit score, it is still wise to check with credit reporting agencies to make sure they contain a similar view of your credit history. It’s also wise to make sure there are no errors on your report, such as name misspellings or incorrect addresses.
Plan to pay your bills on time and follow through.

You can start this today, even before you take a look at your credit report. Contact your creditors to review your payment options and catch up with any late payments. Focus on ways to reduce your spending.

Stop using credit cards now.

Paying down your credit card balances will not only improve your credit rating over time, but you’ll be in a better position to negotiate a lower interest rate for your cards.

Don’t live beyond your means.

Make paying your bills and buying only essential items your main priority. Carefully weigh the importance of all new purchases against the greater importance of reestablishing your good credit.

Getting a handle on your spending, paying bills on time, and paying down credit cards takes a long-term commitment and strong self-control. It won’t always be easy, but the effort will pay off once you see your credit improve.

Toronto Bankruptcy Trustee

Payday loans, also called “cash advance loans,” “check advance loans,” “postdated check loans,” or “deferred-deposit check loans,” may seem like an easy solution to a temporary cash shortage, but for many people, payday loans are the beginning of a vicious and very expensive cycle that they find difficult if not impossible to get out of.Here’s an example: Robin was $200 short of having enough money to pay her bills, so she borrowed it from a payday lender who charged her $60 for up to 15 days. Her plan was to repay the money when she received her next paycheck in two weeks. When the time came, she still didn’t have enough money to pay off the amount she borrowed plus the $60 fee, so she paid an additional $60 fee and rolled her payday loan over for another two weeks.

The cycle continued, and at the end of six months she had paid $720 in fees and still owed the original $200. Her hopes of getting out from under this black cloud are slim. The interest rates on payday loans range from 300% to over 1,000%. Compare that to the interest rate on a small personal loan from a bank, which tends to be more than ten times lower than the rates on even the lowest rate payday loans. Even a relatively high-interest rate credit card has a much lower rate than a payday loan

Who Uses Payday Loans?

Payday lenders target:

• younger consumers with limited understanding of finances
• consumers who are deeply in debt
• consumers who are struggling to meet their day-to-day financial obligations
• those who have a history of using high-risk lenders

Examples of Payday Lenders’ Fees

200cash.com will advance you $200 for up to 15 days for a fee of $60. You can get up to four 15-day extensions for $60 each (for a total of $240 in fees). If the fees cause you to have insufficient funds in your bank account, you’ll be charged a $25 returned check fee by the company in addition to your bank’s returned check fee.

How Do Payday Loans Work?

Typically, you request a payday loan for a short period of time, usually one to four weeks. You show proof of employment and identification and write a postdated check for the full amount of the amount you borrowed plus the payday loan fee, which you leave with the lender. The fee may seem reasonable: $15 to borrow $100 for two weeks, for example. However, the annual interest rate on that loan is 360 percent. It may seem worth it if you’re in a bind, but people often extend the loan month after month and end up paying grossly inflated annual interest rates and end up in worse shape than when they borrowed the money in the first place.

Are Their Options to Payday Loans?

The US Federal Trade Commission’s recommendation is to avoid payday lenders. They recommend these alternatives for safer and less expensive loans:

• Contact a local credit union for a small loan.
• Ask for a pay advance from your employer.
• Consider a loan from family or friends and get the terms of the loan in writing.
• Use a credit card advance.
• Request additional time to pay the bill from your creditors instead of taking a payday loan.
• Find out what your options are before you need a short-term loan.
• Look into overdraft protection on your bank account so if you don’t have enough funds to cover a check you write, the bank will pay the check and you’ll avoid insufficient fund fees and returned check fees.
• See credit counseling.
• Plan ahead to prevent financial emergencies (see below).

Prevent Financial Emergencies

Take a close look at your income and expenses. Track where your money goes and find ways to save. It only takes small amounts in a number of different areas to add up to enough to build a small savings account that you can turn to in a bind instead of turning to high-rate lenders like pay day loan companies.

If you need help preparing a budget, see Budgeting 101 for easy-to-read articles about getting motivated, simple steps for setting up a budget, sample budget worksheets, ideas for finding ways to cut costs and save money, and more.

The Darker Side of Payday Loans

Payday loans are deceptive. Since you’re forced to turn over a postdated check, you may be harassed, threatened, or subjected to collection practices. The payday lender may deposit the check before the date you agreed on, causing your check to bounce and forcing you to pay more fees. Because people who use payday lenders are usually in desperate financial situations already, they may have trouble repaying the original loan and they continue to extend it until they’ve paid more in fees than the amount of their original loan.

The high rates of payday loans make it difficult for many borrowers to repay the loan because they are already in a desperate financial state. They keep extending the loan and end up paying more in fees than they originally borrowed, putting them in worse financial shape than when they started.

A Credit card is the most sensitive product of a bank. Most of the time, we can’t avoid the attractive offers that come with it and enter the world of credit. Only two years ago few banks offered credit cards, but now almost all banks are into the credit card business. Therefore the credit card business definitely provides Canadian banks with more revenue, but do we analyze what we expect from a credit card and exactly where we are driven to? I am trying to explain few things on the whole concept:

Glimpses of Credit card packages that make us jump to our toes:

• Interest free credit period (around 50 to 60 days)

• A financial instrument that can be used almost everywhere, no tension of carrying cash

• Payments can be made partly or in installments.

• Earn reward points that can be utilized to get free gifts and even flight tickets

• Automatic Life insurance coverage

• Additional offers during festive seasons

• Personal loans (pre-approved unsecured loan) against credit card account with attractive rates

• Avail additional discount while booking air / railway tickets, hotel bookings, car fuel purchase etc.

• Emergency cash withdrawal from ATMs

• Money back offer (named as cash back for specific cards).

• Purchase through internet: Few products can be purchased on internet through credit card only

• Now cards are available without any annual charges

• Overall personal status up gradation.

The game starts when we use the credit card for the first time. It feels great after the usage, and seems very convenient too. Slowly people get addicted to it and use at most possible cases, even for shopping grocery.

Some negative factors:

Hidden fees: If payments can’t be made within due date, banks do start charging extra fees. Most of us don’t read the details of interest rate structure given with card kit. There are high interest rates in case of late and default payment.

“Minimum payment due” trap: There is an option of paying a very small amount of the total amount due (say 5% of the total amount due) against each month’s expenses. Banks insists their customer to pay that amount. Even after paying that much amount, bank still charges interest on full value.

Business tie-ups with different companies: Almost everyday banks reach us by phone with various offers. In reality they get associated with different companies to promote product to the credit card holders. For an example, say, AXN bank has tied up with an insurance company and provides health insurance coverage for its customer where payment can be made through is credit card account. The insurance documents are sent at the easiest convenience. Similarly banks try to engage its credit card customer in various programs and pull out money from his pocket. Along with the monthly statement, small brochures of consumer durables and home appliances are attached for business promotion.

EMI payment mode: Payment has never been so convenient. Today we have the option to redeem credit card payments in installments. In case of bigger amount purchase, we can convert it into equated monthly installments (EMI). It gives us the flexibility to redeem the amount partly. Apparently it looks convenient but, in reality it results in very high rates of interest (including processing fees).

Free add-on cards: Banks offer add-on cards to the primary card holder for free. The add-on cards can be used by other family members (children or the spouse of the main card holder) against the same card account. It creates a possibility of additional expenses as well.

Other high risk factors:

1. In case of loss of credit card
2. Card information leakage through net banking
3. Fake transactions may cause harassments

Last but not the least is the effect on the credit report. One default and the account get negatively reported to the credit bureau. Your creditworthiness gets attested by the credit activities that reflect on your report and your credit score. Sometimes this credit rating gets affected without the knowledge of the victim. You might have applied for a card online; it might be so that you did not even complete the application and then forgot about it because the card also never arrived, but suddenly one day while applying for credit somewhere you realize delinquent account reported to the bureau. These mistakes keep happening the one who suffers is you. So whenever it comes to credit cards make sure you are well versed about the pros and cons from the direct source i.e. the bank.

To me, it’s absolutely foolish to give away the maximum part of our monthly income to the bank. It’s definitely not the exact amount that we used to spend before knowing the concept of credit cards. Somewhere in the line we are losing out the balance in the income – expenditure ratio. I guess the main motive is to take away the maximum part of our income by hook or by crook. Under no circumstances, can it be tolerated. So let’s be strict and don’t let the banks win the cool game.

If you’re a Type A credit card user, chances are you know it whether or not you are willing to admit it. If you can answer yes to these questions, then a lifestyle change is in order.

• Do you pay interest fees when you send in your credit card payment?
• Have you ever paid your credit card late because you didn’t have the money for the payment?
• Do you use your credit card when you don’t have enough cash?
• When your issuer raises your credit limit, do you spend more because you can?

Type A credit card users are loved by the issuers. They pay interest and late fees. Between that income and the interchange fee the cards charge the merchants for each transaction, the card issuers’ business plan is to get Type A credit card users to spend more.

On the other hand, Type B users, who don’t pay interest or fees, are shifted to cards with higher interchange fees. For example, Citi switched me from a Dividend Platinum MasterCard to a Dividend World MasterCard. The main difference between the two cards is the RFID chip that allows transactions without physical contact, but the hidden difference is the higher charge merchants pay to accept the card. (Also, like the larger trend in the credit card industry, the cash back rewards have been reduced.)

If you’re a Type A user, then it would be in your best financial interest to stop using your credit card, to budget your income, and use cash. While some people can take that advice and get it done, others have built up a psychological dependency on credit cards. Here are 10 steps to break the cycle of dependency.

1. Look at your spending carefully.

Deep down, some know that they are spending more than they are earning and wasting money on interest fees. This fact is ignored at the conscious level; ignorance is bliss. Use software like Quicken, Microsoft Money, Excel, or even a pen and paper to track all your spending for a month, even the quick daily cafe mocha at Starbucks.

Use your credit card statements to compare with what you have recorded. Did you track everything?

This might reveal incredible, depressing detail about your spending. $100 a month at Starbucks or $400 for dining out are not out of the ordinary when looking at these numbers for the first time.

If you continue this for more than a month, you might see your bottom line, or net worth, declining each month. This is not a good sign, and it may be enough to encourage you to change your behavior for a better chance of financials success.

2. Understand marketing.

Society doesn’t want you to curb your spending. Products and advertising are designed to make you believe you need something when you don’t. Even the government encourages spending, especially when trying to boost the economy. President Bush would be ecstatic if everyone took their economic stimulus payment and loaded up on American-made goods.

It’s hard to maintain control when the rest of the world is against you. The sooner you understand that it takes effort to defy the prevailing trend, the closer you will be to being above the influence of marketing.

Being completely above the influence is impossible unless you disassociate yourself from “civilized” society. Accept the fact that powerful forces in the world are trying to manipulate your behavior, and accept the fact that with extensive research they are mostly successful. With this realization comes enough power to resist a portion of those marketing efforts.

3. Commit yourself to change.

You can only change your behavior if you want,/em> to change your behavior. A smoker can be told repeatedly that there’s a good chance her lifespan will be shortened and may face health consequences like emphysema or cancer, but unless she’s ready to quit, all the words in the world would have no effect. Logic and reason often play small roles in human decision-making.

For those with debt accumulation, the problem isn’t the credit card. Credit cards are just tools, but they enable people to spend money they don’t have. If you’re ready to break the credit card habit, understand that there’s a deeper problem to solve. Without credit cards, the most accessible facility for overspending will be removed, and that can be the first step to solving the deeper problem of overspending. That is, of course, if you’re ready to admit there’s a problem and commit to changing it.

Steps 1 and 2 above may help you get to the point at which you’re ready to commit to changing your behavior. Committing to this change means spending less than you earn. You should be familiar with the details behind your income an expenses and have the knowledge to determine where there are opportunities for cutting back your spending and increasing your income.

If you use the credit card for spending more than you have, then you will need to cut back immediately.

4. Consolidate your balances onto one or two cards.

Gather the latest statements for the cards containing balances. Choose one or two with the lowest interest rates and consolidate your balances onto these cards. By calling the credit card company, you can provide the information for your other cards with balances and they will initiate a balance transfer. Ask for a transfer fee waiver. If they aren’t willing to waive the balance transfer fee, consider using a different card to consolidate your balance.

5. Enact a cash-only policy.

Once you consolidate your balances onto one or two cards, you cannot use those cards for spending. You have two options for spending from this point forward: cash or debit. I suggest cash because spending with a debit card can be psychologically similar to spending with a credit card. In order to kick the overspending habit, changing the way you think about financial transactions is important.

While there is a logical difference between spending with credit cards and with debit cards—debit cards are linked to your checking account so you can only spend what you have—if humans were logical they wouldn’t be in debt.

Actually, now many banks allow you to overspend (overdraw your account) with your debit card. Additionally, they charge a sometimes hefty fee for this “privilege.” If you want to change your behavior, cash-only is the best policy. An empty wallet is a great spending barrier.

6. Destroy your credit cards except for one or two.

Forget all the talk that says closing your credit cards will damage your credit score. Overspending is a larger problem than getting a more favorable rate on your next mortgage. I would suggest canceling almost all of your credit cards. Why not all? While some people might have good results with the “cold turkey” approach, I don’t believe it should be a universal recommendation.

Here’s the proper way to destroy your cards. First, get your free credit report from annualcreditreport.com, the official site that will provide you with your three free reports each year. Inspect the report carefully taking note of every credit card listed. See some unfamiliar cards? Chances are your report contains information on cards you didn’t know you had.

If that’s true, first confirm that these cards are in fact yours. If someone is using your identity to open credit cards, this must be resolves as soon as possible. There’s also the possibility that the credit reposing agency has bad information. Clear any errors quickly by contacting the company that provided you with the credit report, like Experian, Transunion, or Equifax Canada, and disputing the incorrect information.

Next, call the credit card companies for which you do not have your card and cancel your accounts with them. If you don’t have the card, you didn’t even know you were a customer. There’s no sense in keeping a credit line open if you didn’t know you had one and if you’ve survived thus far without needing it. The plan is to reduce your spending, so the simple solution is simply canceling the cards you haven’t been using.

If you consolidated your balances as suggested in step 4, you should have one or two cards with balances and more without. Here’s the dirty secret about consolidation. Now that your your balance is all on one or to cards, your combined minimum payment is probably lower than it was before. Don’t forget to pay at least the minimum to each card, but we’ll tackle paying down the balance aggressively at a later point.

Cancel all the cards not containing balances. As I mentioned above, this is not the savviest approach if you are concerned about your credit score. If you have an overspending habit enabled by easy access to credit, you are not concerned with your credit score. Keep your oldest card if you expect to be applying for a mortgage in the near future, but otherwise, stick with the lowest interest rate.

To cancel your accounts, you have to call the companies. The representative on the phone will try to keep you as customer by offering you lower rates and higher limits. Don’t bother negotiating, even if they offer a lower rate than the card you are saving. The idea here is to simplify, so don’t play any games.

Shred all the now-unused plastic. If you don’t have a shredder that handles credit cards, use a pair of scissors to slice the cards into several pieces. I would even discard of the pieces in different locations.

7. Lock away your remaining credit card.

Now that you have one credit card left, realize that you will not be using this card for everyday spending; for now, cash is king. Put your remaining credit card out of sight. Lock it away. I’ve even heard of some people who put their credit card into a cup of water in the freezer. The extra step of breaking a block of ice to get to your credit may be an extra demotivator.

8. Build an emergency fund.

This step will take some time. If you have an overspending habit, you’re spending more than you earn. That creates a situation that prevents saving. In step 1 you evaluated your spending. Perhaps you came across some options for cutting back, allowing you to put money into a short-term savings account.

Open up a high-yield savings account. Many, like ING Direct, allow you to set up direct deposit or an automatic investment plan. Choose one or the other, which ever is the best for you. It’s simpler if you already have a pay check deposited somewhere else to go with the automatic investment plan.

The goal is to save 3 to 6 months of your expenses in this savings account. This could take a long time if your expenses approach or exceed your income. You’ll have to be creative. If skipping this year’s vacation would help you achieve this goal, then you have a decision to make.

Remember: an emergency fund is to be used in true emergencies only. This doesn’t take the place of your credit card. Te purpose of the emergency fund is to remain untouched for regular expenses but accessible when major spending is required. Some examples might be the loss of a job or a significant medical expense.

9. Pay down your balances.

While you’re building your emergency fund and paying cash for all your expenses, don’t forget to spend money every month to your consolidated credit card balance. In order to get out of debt, you’ll probably have to pay more than the minimum. There are several theories prescribing the best way to divert all available funds to paying down your debt.

A popular financial guru, Dave Ramsey, suggests what he calls the “Snowball Method.” He suggests ordering your balances (you should only have two at the most at this point) from highest to lowest. To the card with the highest balance, pay the minimum each month. To the card with the lowest balance, send the minimum payment plus any additional funds you have available. Dave believes this will allow you to see success (paying off the first card) sooner, providing a psychological boost, encouraging you to continue.

While psychology plays a large part in terms of money, I believe Dave’s reasoning is faulty. If you put the most money towards the card with the highest interest rate, you might not get the psychological boost of paying off a card sooner, and the time difference may be negligible. You will have a psychological boost from knowing that you will be paying less interest.

10. Check your progress monthly.

If you use financial software mentioned above, you’ll have a straightforward way of measuring your progress. You should see your expenses decreasing each month and your credit card balances decreasing. These monthly reports can be excellent motivation to continue. Your habit is clear in graph form; visuals are powerful. Each month, recommit to spending only what you have.

When changing a behavioral pattern like overspending, don’t expect immediate success. Our society encourages consumerism, and breaking from that trend, like swimming against the current, is going to be difficult. We often do not see the consequences of overspending. We hear about the government bailing out banks for making bad lending decisions and creating laws to protect consumers who purchased houses too expensive.

Don’t let this distract you. In most cases, the consequences a pattern of overspending can be difficult on relationships as well as personal finances. Once you’re ready to change, make the commitment and follow the steps above. Success will come through sticking to the plan.

Consolidation Loan:

A consolidation loan should pay off all of your existing unsecured debts. This would be loans from credit cards, retail store cards, bank overdrafts and personal loans.

Essentially, a consolidation loan combines all of your unsecured loans and uses your home equity to secure them.

But be careful of what looks to be a quick fix, you’re getting symptomatic relief, not a credit cure. Home equity lines or loans appear as a quick and easy way to get out of debt. By leveraging your primary residence value, you get money to pay off other bills and a tax break, too. But borrowing against your house can backfire. The biggest risk: You could lose your home if you default on the loan.

Re-Mortgage:

Many times, the answer to a credit crunch is to re mortgage your existing home. Housing prices have increased in the past few years and the opportunity to take some of that equity out of your home.

When you remortgage you move your mortgage from your existing home loan to another loan, paying off the old debt with the new one. You may not even change lender. There are two basic reasons to remortgage: you remortgage to save money with a better rate of interest or you remortgage to borrow more money against the value of your property.

Please remember that as with any mortgage your home may be repossessed if you do not keep up the repayments.

Secured Loan:

A secured loan is a loan that uses your home as security against the loan. Secured loans are suitable for when you are trying to raise a large amount; are having difficulty getting an unsecured loan; or, have a poor credit history.

Benefits of secured loans include:

• The ability to borrow more money
• Lower monthly repayments than unsecured loans
• Spread repayments over a longer period of time

Be on the look out for the following:

• High interest rates
• Penalty charges for defaults or early repayment
• High set up fees

With any type of loan, credit or refinancing, you should always seek professional advise!

When it comes to repairing your credit, you’re the only person for the job.

What should you do if you have bad credit? Here are 10 tips that are designed to improve your credit history and raise your credit score:

1. Get a copy of your credit history:  Equifax Canada is a great place you can go to get a copy of your credit history. Each credit-reporting bureau is required to give you one copy once a year. You should pull copies from each of the bureaus, since they sometimes collect different data.

2. While you’re there, buy a copy of your credit score from Equifax.com. Equifax offers a FICO score, also known as a Beacon score, which is from Fair Isaac, the company that created the concept of credit scoring. Most creditors will pull a FICO score, so you should see what they’re seeing. Your credit score will give you a snapshot of what your credit information means to your creditors. The FICO score runs from 350 to 850. The higher the number, the better. Your target should be to have a credit score of at least 720.

3. Check your credit history thoroughly. You’re looking for errors, misinformation and negative information that might count against you. File a dispute with the three credit-reporting bureaus if you spot any errors. Some credit reports have serious errors in them, so fixing these will boost your score.

4. Understand what kind of debt you’re facing. Make a list of everything you owe, the interest rate each debt carries, and the minimum payment due each month. Then, prioritize your debt: mortgage, real estate taxes, credit cards and medical bills should be paid in that order.

5. Negotiate with your creditors for a lower interest rate. Paying less in interest means more of your payment each month goes toward paying down your balance. If you have a good credit score (over 720 is a starting point), you should be able to find other credit cards featuring zero percent to 5 percent in interest for the first year, or for the life of a balance transfer (check out sites like CardRatings.com and CardTrak.com to compare credit-card offers.) Just be sure you read the fine print: Some credit cards require you to charge on the new account each month or face a stiff fee.

6. Pay down the debt with the highest interest rate first. Pay your mortgage and home equity loan and lines of credit in full each month. Then, make sure you have enough cash to make all of the minimum payments due on your debt each month. Then, throw any spare cash at the debt that carries the highest interest rate first. Once you’ve paid down that debt, transfer all of the extra cash you’re paying each month to the debt with the next-highest interest rate, and so on.

7. Pay everything on time, even if only the minimum payment. The most crucial component of your credit history and credit score is your ability to pay your bills on time each month. Paying on time shows your creditors that you take your debts and obligations seriously. Even one late payment can seriously damage your credit history and credit score, even though it can take a year’s worth of on-time payments to start to heal your credit history and raise your credit score. It doesn’t seem fair, but that’s how the credit industry works.

8. Don’t charge more than 25 percent of your maximum available credit limit. If you carry a credit-card balance that is a higher percentage of your available credit limit, your credit score will go down. Why? Because creditors believe if you charge the maximum on your credit cards, it means you can’t properly manage your credit. You’re better off spreading out your debt between three or four different cards than having it all piled on one card.

9. Don’t open and close a lot of accounts. Again, a credit score tells current and future creditors how likely it is that you won’t pay back your debts. It assesses how risky a borrower you are today. Every time you apply for a new credit card, that creditor pulls a copy of your credit history from the credit-reporting bureaus. That “inquiry” gets reported on your credit history. Too many inquiries in a short period of time signals that you may be getting low on your available credit and need more cash. Even though you might be interested in getting 10 percent off your first purchase for opening a new account, it looks different to a prospective creditor.

10. Don’t share credit. It’s easy to tell someone that you’ll “co-sign” a credit card, student loan or a mortgage loan application, especially if it’s someone you’ve known for a long time. But it’s also easy to wind up in a situation where that friend or relative stops paying his or her bills (for whatever reason) and your credit will take a big hit. Once you’re a co-signer for a loan, you’re legally obligated to make those payments — whether or not you can afford them. So think carefully before you agree to co-sign a loan, and nip the problem of bad credit before it begins.